Kuomboka – Coming Out of the Water
Every year, as summer gives way to winter, the Kuomboka procession is a flurry of vibrant colours, beating drums and chanting voices. This annual procession marks the transition of the Litunga (Lozi King) from his summer to winter residence, which is located on higher ground, away from the seasonal floodplains.
The exact date changes every year, depending on the ebb and flow of the natural world and has been postponed for the last two years owing to the pandemic. On the return of the Kuomboka this year we were fortunate enough to have renowned Zambian photographer, Patrick Bentley at our Time + Tide King Lewanika Camp in Liuwa Plain to capture scenes of the highly energetic, wonderfully noisy and colourful event.
Read more to see details of the day through Patrick’s spectacular images capturing the raw, real and immersive culture of the Lozi community.
Departing Lealui Palace
In the early hours of the morning, before dawn has broken across the plains, a drum is beaten to signify the eminent departure of the Litunga from the Lealui Palace. When the sun finally rises above the horizon, the Mwenduko drum is leaned against a pole facing east, signifying that all is ready, and the ceremony is about to proceed.
First to appear and board the Nalikwanda (the great dugout canoe) are the 180 royal paddlers, clad in traditional siziba attire that features red, the colour of warriors. A magnificent sight, the Nalikwanda is painted with bold black and white stripes – black for the Lozi people and white for spirituality. Representing authority of power, a towering statue of an elephant sits atop the first barge, complete with moveable ears.
Finally, once everyone else has boarded, the Litunga makes his way onto the first boat of the Nalikwanda against the rhythmic chanting of praise for him. Once settled, a chorus of drums begin playing a song called the Ifulwa, which marks the official start of the journey to the Limulunga Palace. For the last ceremonial step before departing, the paddlers sing songs about how the great Nalikwanda was built by the Lozi people, and songs of praise for the strength, bravery and tact of the paddlers.
The Procession
As the full Nalikwanda procession departs, the royal musicians on board continue the festivities. Smaller barges join the procession, travelling in beautiful displays of alternating circles on either side of the main barges. Throughout the journey, a fire burns on board the Litunga’s boat – the smoke being used as a long-distance signal that the king is alive and well. Halfway through the Kuomboka procession, the boats dock at Namutikitela to allow the paddlers to rest and enjoy a traditional Lozi meal of meat and ilya (a thick maize porridge made with sour milk).
Music of the Kuomboka
Music plays a fascinating role in the procession, acting as a form of beautiful, complex communication between those on the boats and those they pass by. The royal paddlers sing continuously, with the melodies changing depending on the needs of the group. If a paddler is lagging behind the rhythm of the others, the melody changes to inform him. If he fails to keep up, he will be transferred to a smaller barge, and in extreme cases, if he resists, he will be thrown overboard. Throughout the journey, the royal musicians play the Maoma drums and Lozi silimba (a wooden xylophone), calling for people to follow them to higher grounds.
Arriving at Limulunga Palace
Upon arriving at the Limulunga Palace, the Litunga disembarks and walks majestically into the Royal Pavilion. To honour his arrival, men perform the royal homage of kneeling, bowing their heads andclapping the Kushowelala song, while the women sing and dance. The royal paddlers dance like warriors and perform the Lozi Royal Salute. For the rest of the day, a variety of convivial song and dance are performed, ending with the final beats of the Moama drum at 10pm, which signals the safe arrival of the Litunga on higher ground.
We look forward to welcoming our guests in immersing themselves and experiencing the culture and energy of Liuwa Plain’s Lozi people with us at Time + Tide King Lewanika. The road less travelled awaits…
FOLLOW THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED
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This is the most magical place you're ever likely to experience. Nestled under a grove of imposing Albida trees, it is clearly favoured by the many elephant who graze on the Albida pods. Their presence adds an incredibly special energy to the camp.
Karen, Guest at Time + Tide Chongwe Camp
The lodge is stunning and all the staff are utterly wonderful. The views from the lodge are outstanding, lovely Liuwa wilderness.
My bedroom was incredibly comfortable, very stylish, hitting a difficult combination of minimalist yet luxury. Incredibly comfortable bed and many relaxing areas to rest.
Mandi, Guest at Time + Tide King Lewanika
Our family had the most joyful time at Chongwe, really everything was perfect and every detail taken care of. The team ensured we had the best time at every activity (even tiger fishing!). We felt privileged to spend a few days here and look forward to returning.
Dawn, Guest at Time + Tide Chongwe
We love safaris and this was an excellent camp with a real authentic bush feel, which we always enjoy. The service was excellent and the team are so attentive. Really superb guiding which made for a tremendous experience.
Cate, Guest at Time + Tide Mchenja
Chinzombo is a stunning lodge in a beautiful location of the South Luangwa. The rooms are luxurious and spacious, with a deck and plunge pool overlooking the Luangwa River. There is always an abundance of wildlife around the rooms, we had a banded mongoose, bushbuck, elephants and hippo's - just to name a few.
Michael, Guest at Time + Tide Chinzombo