The afternoon begins in the shade of the trees at Chongwe Camp, where the team has set a tea table that would tempt even the most eager safari-goer to linger a little longer. The chefs have been busy and today, it’s sweet beetroot cupcakes topped with a swirl of cream cheese frosting, alongside buttery, caramelised tarts that crumble perfectly at first bite. There’s freshly brewed tea and strong coffee, and something cool and fruity too, for those already dreaming of the river.
Soon after, the boat hums to life and eases away from camp, gliding past the confluence where the Chongwe River meets the mighty Zambezi. Afternoon light shimmers on the water’s surface, and the air is filled with birdsong.
It’s the golden hour for a boat safari; peaceful, unhurried, and full of quiet discovery.
Along the riverbank, life plays out in scenes of gentle beauty. A malachite kingfisher, no larger than your hand, sits quietly amongst the reeds, its feathers glowing like gemstones. A kudu steps lightly from the thicket to drink, alert and poised. Elephants appear at the water’s edge, moving in procession along the bank, calves guided carefully between the adults, their grey shapes mirrored in the still surface. Reflection only disturbed by a hippo popping it’s head up to survey the scene.
The boat drifts into a wide, shallow stretch of the river. Rods are brought out, and lines cast into the current. This is tiger fish territory and with it, a quiet thrill. The boat holds still, swaying gently with the water’s rhythm. Somewhere nearby, a fish eagle calls. There is a hush here, broken only by the possibility that, at any moment, something might strike.
Then it comes: the sharp, sudden strike of a tiger fish. Powerful, fast, and full of fight, it dances in and out of the water. Whether it’s landed or lost, the excitement is electrifying. The guides, seasoned and calm, are quick to offer help and encouragement, their quiet confidence adding to the joy of the catch.
Around a bend in the river, a special scene is waiting.
As the sun begins its final descent, lines are reeled in and the boat glides upstream once more. On a remote sandbank, two figures stand beside a perfectly laid table; a sundowner stop, conjured seemingly from thin air.
Here, in the middle of the Zambezi, an impromptu bush bar is waiting. For those marking something special, or simply celebrating the joy of the day, a chilled bottle of bubbles sits ready to be poured. There’s something the chefs have prepared: light, thoughtful snacks with just the right touch of indulgence. And nearby, a butler stands quietly, attentive to every unspoken wish.
The sun sets slowly, turning the river to gold. Sitting in between two countries, Zambia on one side and Zimbabwe on the other, it’s a moment that feels suspended in time: the rustle of reeds, the low murmur of conversation, the soft clink of ice in a glass.
The bush stretches endlessly around you, and though the river flows steadily on, the world seems to pause.
As the last light of the day dims, the boat turns for home. Chongwe Camp lies just ahead, its lanterns glowing warmly in the trees, the gentle flicker of the fire drawing you back. The river quietens, stars begin to appear, and the memory of the afternoon, of the birds, the fish, the elephants, the sandbank, lingers softly for time to come.
FOLLOW THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED
Discover the road less travelled
Our expertise in African travel and conservation dates back for many decades, you can expect equally pioneering travel guidance from our award-winning team. Time + Tide are custodians of some of the most remote corners of our planet and it is our privilege to guide you along the road less travelled.